Wednesday 28 January 2009

Guilt Trip # 4

...Sharing this photograph of Ellie being smeared with Neem leaf pulp concoction. Do you think she'll thank me for this when she's older?

Tuesday 27 January 2009

Irritating India Day

Time for a moan, whinge and a foot stamp or three. Today has been one of those days. Hope you're comfortable because this may be a long one.

6.30am realisation that there is no hot water in the house. Why? Who knows.

After checking all my Child Manuals, on the web and with NHS direct I deduced that Ellie was no longer contagious as all her chicken pox blisters had scabbed over by last Saturday. So today was back to school for her, or so I thought. We got up, had all the usual rows about what she was wearing, how she was going to brush her teeth and how slowly she could eat her breakfast and finally left for school.

Guilt trip #1 I dropped her at her class and to my surprise, after over a week away, not one of the teachers asked her, or me how she was, but just teased her about how clingy she was which made her worse. Not surprising really when she is in her little class where no other girls speak English and don't include her in anything. I finally settled her and left.

Guilt trip #2 Half way home en route to collect Luke to take him to his playgroup I get a call from the school nurse. "Ellie has visible spots and cannot stay at school". I had checked and double checked, she's not contagious, she's not even itchy...
"But in the UK"...but apparently not in India.

We do a U turn and return to school, where I find Ellie in 'the sick bay'. "She's hot and has a fever still." Well she would, wouldn't she, lying on a bed covered with a plastic sheet and wrapped up to her chin in a woollen blanket in 30+ degrees. She hasn't had a 'fever' since the day before her spots appeared, but here in India EVERY AILMENT is described as a 'fever'. So, I got a friendly lecture on how India perceives Chicken Pox...not as one of those 'normal' childhood illnesses apparently. At least 20 days to recover apparently. Doctors note required to admit her back to school apparently. Neem leaves are the best treatment apparently.

OK. So I listened, I took her home. Luke missed his playgroup. Pushpa was concerned why she hadn't stayed at school and I asked her what Neem leaves were?? She disappears into the garden and returns with some, just like that, and explains why the Indians use them. Neem leaves are the answer to everything apparently and have healing and anti bacterial properties. If anyone in a household is ill they sleep on them, and if a woman is at 'that time of the month' then Neem leaves are hung outside the door. She probably sleeps on them as well. In the case of chickenpox Neem leaves are ground up and mixed with water and some sort of powder, the packaging is all in Tamil and no-one was able to offer a translation, and applied to the spots. Pushpa offered to do this for Ellie and before I knew it, and just as I was 'down the garden' paying the Pool Guy, she had been stripped, standing on a stool and having the brightest green concoction smeared all over her before being washed off with water. She hated it, and looked more like the alien that she doesn't want to be. But, half an hour later, I have to admit, her spots had faded.

Guilt Trip # 3 This evening Pushpa told me how the Tamils treat Chickenpox. The child stays inside their house for 3 weeks or more, they don't go out to play, they certainly don't go shopping (!). They sleep every night without cushions on the floor (with their mother) wrapped only in her Sari on a bed of Neem leaves. 3 months to the day that their spots appeared they go to The Temple with their mother and sleep the whole night there on the floor. After this they are cured.

My other irritations involved shopping, most of the time I don't mind visiting 4 shops in different corners of the city searching for one ingredient but I was short on time and only looking for 'long' beansprouts. In the third shop, which didn't have any but had fresh mushrooms and strawberries, my search was constantly hindered by a very young and glamorous Indian woman, more than likely a Tamil actress judging how everyone was bowing and scraping to her every want and need. I had my two things and went to patiently wait at the un-manned till to pay while all the staff practically kissed her feet. When she was finally done two staff returned to the till with HER basket and began ringing it all up on the till. HELLO!! I've been waiting here 5 minutes...they looked at me with complete disdain and carried on. Irritated beyond belief I just dropped everything I had (not much) on the checkout and walked out. Their loss, because 'ex-pat prices' are far higher than Indian prices...yet another irritation.

The fourth shop had beansprouts and Ellie's favourite chocolate milk, thank goodness and all was going well until...the checkout. One man decided his needs were greater than mine, and, because men in India can, he shoved me out of the queue to get there first...here at least I'm a bit of a regular and the woman serving gave him short sharp thrift, well that was my interpretation of their Tamil exchange anyway and he finally conceded. Good job because by this time I was in no mood for any more arguments.

Monday 26 January 2009

Reeling From Today's News

For the last few months we have been very aware of the worldwide downturn both here and at home and the effects on 'the company'. We knew there was announcemnet due today but we hadn't anticipated its magnitude. 20,000 jobs to go worldwide, 18% of the global workforce.

My New Favourite Restaurant

Ian and I always enjoyed Indian food every now and again back home, the odd Balti here, Tikka Masala there...but I can honestly say that you just haven't tasted good Indian cooking until you come here, and more and more, if we go out, our first choice will be South Indian cuisine.

We're becoming more and more tolerant of the humble chilli and I'm even beginning to think that some things are bland without enough of it's little kick. For those of you who know me, you'll remember my love of black pepper (OK a lot of, yes, yes including on strawberries, but taste it and you'll see) on everything but here I hardly ever have it...my collection of pepper mills are practically redundant and I'm not sure why that should be the case at home, but anyway I digress.

On Saturday evening we visited a restaurant called Peshwari (a mixture of North & South Indian), it's located within one of the big hotels and our meal was truly fantastic. But the food was not its only good point...oh no! Those of you who know me will also remember my inability to eat without dropping a little something of whatever I'm having onto whatever I am wearing. Often. My children seem to have inherited this gene so we use alot of Vanish in our household.

Anyway, you're dying to know the reason why I am nominating Peshwari as my New Favourite Resataurant aren't you? Well, instead of a napkin they provide you with an apron to wear!! How cool is that? And do you know what...sods law I didn't spill a drop that night.

Republic Day of India

Yes, you've guessed...another national holiday! The flags are out, Kolam's have been drawn and everyone is wearing a little Indian flag pinned to their chests. I even saw a white cow with one horn painted green and one painted orange.

This time it is a celebration to mark the adoption of the Constitution of India and the transition of India from a British Dominion to a republic on 26th January 1950.  On this date the country realised the dreams of Mahatma Ghandi and other freedom fighters who, fought for and lost their lives for the independence of this country.Today, the anniversary is celebrated with great enthusiasm all over the country especially in the capital New Delhi with a remembrance service, awards for outstanding individuals who have served their country and a Grand Parade. Here's two links to some pictures of today and last year's events.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/in_pictures/7850848.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/in_pictures/7210526.stm

Each state capital also has a celebration and parade, Chennai being the state capital of Tamil Nadu is no exception and 100's of thousands were expected at Marina Beach today for celebrations and a political rally. We decided to head out of town for a little peace and quiet...and found it thank goodness, at Fishermans Cove.

On Friday Luke's school held a ceremony where all the little ones paraded in a circle, wearing national colours, the indian flag was raised and the national anthem was sung.

Thursday 22 January 2009

The POX hurts...

"Mummy, why do I have to have spots? I don't want to look like an alien."

Wednesday 21 January 2009

Chickenpox in Da House

As we were getting dressed for school yesterday I thought a rogue mosquito had got into Ellie's room and had a feast on her little body but upon closer inspection with 'bites' in places where even a bionic mosquito couldn't reach it dawned on me she has Chickenpox.

Ellie's reaction...delight!  "I've always wanted Chickenpox Mummy, all my friends have had it and now I have it", she called as she skipped off to the playroom preparing herself for a 'duvet day'.  We're on day 2 now and thankfully it looks like just a mild case, however she didn't quite feel so happy about it at 3am this morning and ended up in our bed and poor Ian had to trudge off to her bed to try and get some more sleep before his early start.

This solves my dilemma...whether to vaccinate or not, UK doctors saying no on the grounds that it is a mild childhood disease and those who are vaccinated are more likely to have severe Shingles in adulthood, Indian doctors saying yes on the basis that cases here can be more severe but mainly for those who are undernourished and in generally poorer health.  I had heard such conflicting advice that I was still pondering on whether to do it or not so now the decision is taken out of my hands.

Sunday 18 January 2009

The Demise of Hissing Sid




I had been hearing rumours all week that there was a snake (non poisonous but apparently a bite would render you in hospital for a couple of days) on the loose in or around our garden but Kumar had been so very reassuring so as not to worry me I'm sure, that I'd almost forgotten about it.

After a lazy Sunday morning we decided to venture out for some lunch, we were just about to climb into the car when there is a loud shout and one of the guards comes running from one side of the house. There is a flurry of activity as the other two come running with some very large sticks that they've obviously been storing for just this type of event. Murasoli leaps into action and it was at this point I realised it was a SNAKE! It attempted to make a dash for it, OMG how fast are they?! Unable to escape it returned to the carport to hide behind some 'stuff'.

Murasoli shouts to me to go inside. Are you kidding? I want to see this beast, but from a safe distance obviously!

I won't go into details about what happened next but it would be fair to say that I saw a whole new side to our well mannered, soft and gentle Murasoli today. However he was quite the hero of the hour and Hissing Sid is no more.

Since this episode we have taught Ellie a 'Snake Drill'. She's hardly ever on her own outside but better to be safe.

Pongalcherry Part II & Auroville

After our arrival in Pondicherry on Thursday and having settled into the hotel we set off on foot to explore, it was great to be able to walk. The atmosphere and architecture around the seafront and adjoining roads could be described as Gallic with many shuttered and colour washed houses, French road names and the odd 'Bonjour' to be heard every now and again.

We found a good (by Indian standards) park in the Government Place and Ellie & Luke enjoyed themselves while attracting alot of friendly attention from all the Indian Pongal visitors.  However, if we had thought that Pondicherry was busy on this day then we were totally unprepared for Friday. In my previous Pongal post I referred to Friday as the day that families have days out and visit one another...they also it seems come to Pondicherry...thousands upon thousands of them!  We were mobbed wherever we went, us and the children must be in photos on hundreds of mobile phones and cameras.  In defeat we retreated to the Promenade Hotel and pool and watched the throngs from a safer and quieter distance.

We did attempt to visit Auroville, the City of Dawn www.auroville.org (if this link doesn't work click on the title)but the visitor centre was closed for Pongal. We were able to walk through the grounds to view the golden dome, however the children attracted more attention from the hordes of visitors than the place itself, so we didn't stay as long as we'd have liked.  In a nutshell Auroville is probably the most New Age place anywhere in India where around 2000 people of all nationalities live in communes in a forested area of some 50 square kilometres.  We planned to visit again on our way home but then heard that in preparation for a visit by the Dalai Lama this week, security was being tightened and visitors have to book a day in advance.  Next time.

We managed to find one of the temple elephants and were all blessed by him.  You give him a coin and then he touches your head with his trunk.  Neither Luke or Ellie were amused at all though!!

Click to play Pondicherry
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Saturday 17 January 2009

Pongalcherry Part I

It was with great anticipation that we embarked on our first 'out of city' trip to Pondicherry (aka Puducherry) the former capital of French India on Thursday morning.

I'm still trying to decide whether it was 'a mistake' to go during the Pongal Festival or 'an experience'.

Once we finally left the hectic and rubbish strewn area of Chennai called the East Coast Road and, just past Mahabalipuram the views from the road became more typical of the India I first enjoyed about 10 years ago...rural villages, beautiful farmland, rice paddies, cows grazing in fields and not in rubbish, mango and cashew groves, an even poorer life than we already bear witness to day in and out but, dare I say a prouder one.

Here, the cows were being bathed and having a damned good wash in the rivers as the traditional Pongal festival dictates before being painted and elaborately decorated and then being taken into the villages to be ceremoniously paraded, ridden and tamed and the children looked happy and playful. The houses, although basic and simple were immaculately kept.

Finally we arrived in Pondicherry. First impressions? Less busy and chaotic than Chennai. Cleaner. More organised. Less People. Pavements you can actually walk on without breaking your neck or ankles! I had imagined it would have a lovely beach...and if you count big black boulders as 'lovely' you're in for a treat, otherwise forget it.

We tried to check into our pre-booked hotel 'The Promenade' as it's name tells you right on the front overlooking the Promenade but there was a problem...we booked adjoining rooms...one for us & and one for the kids...only they don't actually have any, but of course it wasn't their fault. So we argued the toss for a great deal of time until an intelligent manager, requested for by us, the staff would not have dared to call him otherwise(!) arrived to smooth things over.

"I have just the right room for you at our sister hotel Le Dupliex, just around the corner". And he did...steeped in history this hotel was originally the residence of The Lord mayor of Pondicherry, took 4 years to renovate and was a true boutique hotel. The atmosphere, service and food were all terrific and it was close enough to everything to walk, if only we'd remembered to pack the pushchair!

The downside (for anyone speculating that we may 'go' for a 3rd child can definately cancel their bets right now, this VERY minute) was sharing a room with our lovely (grrr) son, who, imagine this through well gritted teeth, thought it highly hilarious that he could see all three of us...fast asleep...at 5am each morning and then found it great fun to shout "Heyo Eeeii, Heyo Mummy, Heyo Daddy", until he had us all awake and playing his game. With his batteries fully recharged he wreaked havoc until, oh yes you guessed... just about half way through breakfast when he'd crash and burn to re-charge once again, leaving the rest of us shell-shocked and tired.

Monday 12 January 2009

Happy Pongal!


This week Tamil Nadu celebrates Pongal and its New Year.

Pongal is a harvest festival that is celebrated in Tamil Nadu on January 14 and festivities continue for four days.

The first day is named Bhogi, at 3am tomorrow (Tuesday) morning Hindu's get up and bathe they then clean out their houses and make a bonfire of all the useless rubbish they have accumulated over the year and they pray to Indra, the Rain God. (Expect a fair old smog in the morning!) they will then draw spectacular Rangoli at the entrance to their houses.

The second and main day is known as Surya Pongal is dedicated to the Sun God. The newly harvested rice, jaggery, cashew nuts and dahl along with milk is cooked in a new clay pot until the mixture boils and spills over. The boiling over of the 'Pongal' is symbolic of plenty and signifies that the harvest will always be good. Each family member will eat a small amount of the mixture and sprinkle the rest around the house as a prayer to the Sun God to bless their house.



The third day is Mattu Pongal when cows and bulls are honoured as they are the main source of sustenance for the farmers. Milk suppliers decorate their cows with clothes and ribbons and their horns are painted, they are then taken to visit all the houses to bring all good luck.

The fourth day is Kannum Pongal when family members visit each other and enjoy days out. In some of the villages bull fights are held and money is tied to their horns as a way to tempt unarmed men to fight them.

Luke's school held a Pongal celebration today where we all watched the boiling and spilling over of the Pongal. We then ate a small amount, shame Luke fell asleep because it was delicious and I'm certain it wouldn't have been half as tasty had it been left, so I had to finish it. Rude not to!

Sunday 11 January 2009

A Pleasant Episode of Culture Shock

This weekend we have mainly been going to the Ballet!

The Novoi Bolshoi Ballet of Uzbekistan have been in town and treated us to a performance of Don Quixote on Saturday and a Medley of Classics today, and it was such a treat. Ellie sat so happily transfixed the first day that I just had to take her back today especially as the finale of the programme was scenes from her beloved The Nutcracker.

Just before Christmas she had asked me whether we could go to see The Nutcracker this year, and I had to promise her that the next time we are in England for Christmas I would take her again, so you can imagine she was delighted to go earlier than anticipated and I was amazed at how much of the story she remembered.

Back at home afterwards she was on a bit of a high, twirling and prancing all over the place in her fairy costume and she's gone to bed one very tired but happy little girl determined to dream about it.

I'm not sure what the Indian audiences made of it, or indeed how often this type of event even happens here. There were certainly a large number who were very serious about it, a few more who fidgeted and talked(!), there was lots of applause in the wrong places, the odd mobile phone going off, rustling of crisp packets, people popping in and out... and so I deduce that educating new audiences in India is pretty much the same as the UK! Hard work! Interval drinks were bottles of water, pepsi or orange at 10 Rupees a throw...less than 10p...do you read that Symphony Hall??!! On the other hand ticket prices for this type of thing are very high...top price 3000 Rupees(£40) bottom price 500 Rupees (£8)....the stuff of dreams for your average man on the street of Chennai.

Saturday 10 January 2009

You Know You Live In India...

When your four year old comes out with the following

While eating smiley potato faces, "Look Mummy, This one is wearing a Bindi"

Friday 9 January 2009

A Maid Update

I really hope that I'm not going to tempt fate with this post...

But things could really not get any better than they've been the last few weeks.

Maid # 4 Mary, started 3 weeks ago turns out that she and Maid # 2 Pushpa worked together a couple of years ago and are friends and they really do 'work together'. They are both a pleasure to have have around and are wonderful with the children. One is Hindi and the other Catholic and despite all the warnings we have had that 'mixed religion' staff don't work well together we have no complaints at all especially as it also means that we will not often be without help as they have different holidays. They constantly educate me about customs, traditions and cooking and are interested in our lives back home.

It also turns out that Mary is a bit of a cook and has been so eager to please that she keeps on rustling up the most lovely food. When my family were here she was whipping up pancakes for breakfast, Biryani, Curries, Dahl and much to my nephews delight...Chicken Korma which was hoovered up in no time at all. Her idea of low salt/low fat is a little different to mine but we are trying to counteract that with a lot of salad! This morning she made us Dosai for breakfast...a thick type of pancake made with rice flour, stuffed with spiced (not too much) potato served with a coconut chutney, they were very tasty and went down very well with the boys in the family, a bit heavy for me and Ellie took one bite and asked for a bowl of Coco Pops.

Mary did get a little confused over the clothes washing instructions and it was only when she asked me to get more washing powder armed with an empty box of Calgon tablets that I realised why our clothes hadn't had their normal scent for a while!

Thursday 8 January 2009

Chicken Shop

I'm a supermarket ready to cook kind of girl. Dinner tonight? Chicken!...let's pop into Sainsbury's and pick up a pack of boneless, skinless chicken breasts.

Not quite so easy in India, our local notsosupermarket shop has a few chilled chickens in their fridge but they don't look too great and I'm never sure whether to trust them when they say that they are fresh that day, because I'm always sure that I've seen the one on the right before, the last time I was in, maybe a couple of days ago and they're way too expensive.

Pushpa has been collecting fresh chicken for me on her way here but a couple of days ago I had forgotten to ask her, so I asked Kumar to take me to a 'Chicken Shop'. I want 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts I told him, he didn't quite understand so then we had to go through the demonstration process (!). He pulls the car over and I turn and see the 'chicken shop'




Gulp.

Kumar and I approach the shop, the smell of chicken poop is overwhelming and no wonder because all those chickens are sitting in cages awaiting their fate. I was asked if I wanted to choose which birds I wanted but I took one look at the blood spattered apron of 'the slayer' the flies buzzing around, one last whiff and came over a little nauseous. No thanks, I'll wait in the car.

After about 15 minutes Kumar returns and tells me it's 3Kg of chicken and that'll be 340Rupees (about £5) 4 chicken breasts weigh 3kg errr? Too shocked to argue about the weight I give him the money, he hands me the bag...which is, ahem, still warm.

Back at home, I give the bag to Pushpa for her to deal with...turns out that my 4 chicken breasts got translated into four chicken's breasts.

All told, it was a good result, we had extremely fresh chicken and once cooked for a salad for us and made into chicken balls for the kids, with four extra breasts deposited safely in the freezer it was all very delicious, I just don't think the experience of the 'chicken shop' is one I want to repeat very often.

All our other meat is delivered frozen, what if, one day I have to go to a Mutton or Beef Shop?

Wednesday 7 January 2009

T'was the Night Before Christmas...

...and all through the house, not a creature was stirring, not even a Security Guard





At 1am, technically Christmas Day I know, while we were mopping up after the Nori Virus struck the boys all 3 guards were sleeping soundly and yes, one of them is in one of the children's car seats! Ian walked around...he took photographs, he opened the front gates, he went outside, he came back in and not one of them moved a muscle!

Someone asked recently..'Why Do We Have Guards?' Good question when you see this lot!

A 'Tropical' Christmas For All

We really enjoyed having my sister Sally, Dave, Thomas & William to stay. Here are some photographs of our time together.



Click to play Christmas in Chennai
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Tuesday 6 January 2009

DH, DD, DS? An Explanation

So....some of you are now catching up with us out here! You took your time but lovely to have you reading. And because some people are soooo far behind you missed the explantation of my abbreviations and it is all probably far too boring and time consuming for you to go right back to the beginning where it was explained! Am I right?! Thought so, judging by all the queries.

I wasn't 100% comfortable using the children's names to start with but as time goes by and a New Year brings new beginnings so from here on in I will use them...

DH - is Ian
DD - is Ellie
DS - is Luke

I hope this clears up any confusion and keeps everybody happy.