Saturday 17 January 2009

Pongalcherry Part I

It was with great anticipation that we embarked on our first 'out of city' trip to Pondicherry (aka Puducherry) the former capital of French India on Thursday morning.

I'm still trying to decide whether it was 'a mistake' to go during the Pongal Festival or 'an experience'.

Once we finally left the hectic and rubbish strewn area of Chennai called the East Coast Road and, just past Mahabalipuram the views from the road became more typical of the India I first enjoyed about 10 years ago...rural villages, beautiful farmland, rice paddies, cows grazing in fields and not in rubbish, mango and cashew groves, an even poorer life than we already bear witness to day in and out but, dare I say a prouder one.

Here, the cows were being bathed and having a damned good wash in the rivers as the traditional Pongal festival dictates before being painted and elaborately decorated and then being taken into the villages to be ceremoniously paraded, ridden and tamed and the children looked happy and playful. The houses, although basic and simple were immaculately kept.

Finally we arrived in Pondicherry. First impressions? Less busy and chaotic than Chennai. Cleaner. More organised. Less People. Pavements you can actually walk on without breaking your neck or ankles! I had imagined it would have a lovely beach...and if you count big black boulders as 'lovely' you're in for a treat, otherwise forget it.

We tried to check into our pre-booked hotel 'The Promenade' as it's name tells you right on the front overlooking the Promenade but there was a problem...we booked adjoining rooms...one for us & and one for the kids...only they don't actually have any, but of course it wasn't their fault. So we argued the toss for a great deal of time until an intelligent manager, requested for by us, the staff would not have dared to call him otherwise(!) arrived to smooth things over.

"I have just the right room for you at our sister hotel Le Dupliex, just around the corner". And he did...steeped in history this hotel was originally the residence of The Lord mayor of Pondicherry, took 4 years to renovate and was a true boutique hotel. The atmosphere, service and food were all terrific and it was close enough to everything to walk, if only we'd remembered to pack the pushchair!

The downside (for anyone speculating that we may 'go' for a 3rd child can definately cancel their bets right now, this VERY minute) was sharing a room with our lovely (grrr) son, who, imagine this through well gritted teeth, thought it highly hilarious that he could see all three of us...fast asleep...at 5am each morning and then found it great fun to shout "Heyo Eeeii, Heyo Mummy, Heyo Daddy", until he had us all awake and playing his game. With his batteries fully recharged he wreaked havoc until, oh yes you guessed... just about half way through breakfast when he'd crash and burn to re-charge once again, leaving the rest of us shell-shocked and tired.

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